Of course, it’s not the Swans that appealed to Jensen. Looking through photographs of that dazzling evening, he was struck by a “coming-up beauty with big eyes and lots of hair,” wearing “the dress of the evening”. Penelope Tree was the hit of the ball – the gushing words are from Eugenia Sheppard’s write-up in the World Journal Tribune. Jensen was fascinated with the idea of the gamine 17-year-old invading this most soignée of occasions – wearing not much more than a jersey dress slit up to her ribs, and a pair of tights.
Look closely and you’ll see that Evening has infiltrated the sporty, youthful collection like a paparazzo sneaking through the kitchen. Bow details crop up on shoulder-revealing sweatshirts, chef-cotton pencil skirts and tie-waist crêpe dresses. Jogging ensembles come in black or silver lurex; a cotton jacquard scintillates with shiny flowers. Tree’s dress is referenced in a cardigan slit up the side for a sexy twisted effect, and in a breezy jump-suit that starts as a bustier and ends in tomboy shorts. Even Truman’s swans are there – as a jaunty repeat print overlaid with polka dots, or scribbled over canvas by the designer himself.
Of course, this is a Jensen collection, so the 60s shapes and general whiff of perverted innocence are right at home. Ruffle-fronted shirts, schoolboy shorts, and a neat little rain mac will all please devoted fans, as will a Guernsey jumper with integrated rabbit detail. Why not throw on a matching rabbit mask? Candice Bergen would.